BASIC EQUIPMENT – WHAT YOU MUST HAVE!  

!   Warning : ALL of your gear will be abraded by the sandstone! Use sturdy stuff

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WALKING SHOES
 for getting there and back to base afterwards…

Tennis shoes are great, if they have a sole that isn't too indented or worn – using their gripping properties in the easy bits that don't need climbing shoes yet.

Shoes with a rigid sole – like mountain shoes or boots – are absolutely out of the question! You can't feel anything through them… and they destroy the superficial "crust" of the sandstone

NB : to have a supple shoe, gripping and comfortable which also held the ankle firmly, I used at one time …boxing shoes – just great!

 An old pair of climbing shoes, large and comfortable, is also fine.

Obviously many approaches don't need shoes at all. "Flip-flops" (sandals) are enough. But remember you have to come down again, even if you are abseiling. Bare feet – well if you're used to them….

CLIMBING SHOES

Not too narrow for the routes with several pitches. The heat makes the feet swell, and if your feet are pinched you will be in agony in the cracks where you have to jam (sometimes there are a lot of them..) 

! Get them large and comfortable for the Bedouin routes, mostly possible in simple tennis shoes.

 For the harder and shorter routes, better fitting shoes or "ballerinas"

Be careful of bruises or scratches in the cracks from low fitting shoes. I have had to bandage my ankle with Elastoplast…  The rubber gets worn down quickly! And remember to bring along spare shoelaces.  Remember that the sandstone here is the most abrasive of all rocks.

CLOTHES– from head to foot

Durable, light, comfortable and light coloured. That might make you smile…

On the summit of Jebel Rum right in the sun, press your hands against the three colours of the Jordanian flag painted on the rock. Educational, don't you think?  The white is almost cool, while the green and especially the red are really hot!

A basic rule in the desert is always to cover the head – whether it's warm or cold.  A white or light coloured helmet is strongly advised. Not for rock falls (almost inexistent) but for your own falls!

Sometimes I have found them very long. Once was during the opening of "Sultan le Borgne" : a hold gave way, right at the top – and plop! Once again I arrived at the belay at the bottom in the arms of my belayer – who was surprised by my unexpected visit….

Avoid shorts or even too short pants. Why ? Well because rubbing your white and tender skin against the stone is likely to get it burned! Just doing that and nothing else….  The same thing for sleeveless pullovers. Your handsome and muscular shoulders (very athletic!) will be quickly marred. If that happens, see "Medicine Chest" in the page "Tips and advice" to know how to get them back in shape.

Protective sunglasses, of course. With strap and everything….. A handsome goodbye present for your Bedouin host. They have difficulty in wearing them, but after a number of eye inflammations, they realise that the glasses are useful after all. Unless of course, it's just for the outward effect….

WEATHERPROOF CLOTHES

Those who know Wadi Rum will smile…. It's always fine there ! ! !

Yeah!   But in December and January, even in February, the wind is so icy and cutting that you need a good windcheater. With a polar jacket on top…. And also a woolly cap coming down over your ears….  I've seen snow in Wadi Rum, and also rain – hard, violent and destructive. At any time of the year.

If this happens then STOP! Don't move, or it might be dangerous.  Get into a hollow or under an overhang and make some tea to wait until it's over.  See "objective dangers" in the page "Tips and Advice".

If you are incurably drawn to cracks and their torturous twists, then use Strappal.  On a crack climb with a lot of jamming, improvising protective "gloves" with reusable Strappal, as is done in the States for the famous cracks in Utah and elsewhere, is a good idea.

When I was opening the improbable "secret" crack in the depths of the massif, I found myself having to protect, not only my fingers and my hands but also the rest: arms, elbows, shoulders…

So I stuck down the sleeves of my sweater with Elastoplast until there wasn't a square centimeter of my skin showing, nothing in contact with the rock.

Here, it's like the hardest and most unforgiving granite.

DRINK … and keep on drinking!

Constantly rehydrating your system is your best guarantee of efficiency, more so than elsewhere. The air by itself is already dry. In addition you are making an effort, sometimes a lengthy one, and in the sun… Specially conditioned liquids like "Camelback" are perfect. Mind you, they need to be in a solid protective cover. Never simple water. Always add a bit of sugar – or … salt.

The water in Rum village and in all the nearby villages is drinkable. The water comes from an immense aquifer, under the northern part of the area (the aquifer of Disi).  In general tap water is drinkable everywhere in Jordan.

On the other hand, water found in sandstone pools or other natural catchments should be treated cautiously. Everything depends on how long it has been there…. Purifying pastilles (like Micropur) are reassuring, but not always really effective.

Personally I do as the Bedouin do. I make tea, boiling the water.

There is always plenty of dry wood, and twigs you can use for kindling.  Mind you, you have to remember to bring THE LIGHTER (or matches) ! And of course the little kettle with enough tea and sugar….

In any case, be sure to bring plenty of water. A minimum of 3 liters per person for a day in the shade…… and that's not really enough…. And if you're caught out in the sun – then be careful!

It was after opening "Towering Inferno" with Tony, that for months I had a series of kidney stones.

My system was totally overset after being exposed for long periods to the heat and to the sun (50 to 55°C!!) on the rock face during the belays.

I remember my frenzy of wanting to be covered with everything and anything to get away from the bite of the sun (rucksack, rope…)

Sometimes we nearly went to sleep at the belays.

When we got down our feet were black and swollen and horribly painful. Di fussed over us, bringing wonderful bowls of cold water to revive them. They were all dried up!

WHAT YOU MUST BRING

• Water

• A lighter (with a small kettle, sugar and tea - if you are there for more than a day)

• A light pocket knife

• Minimum of food

Why the knife especially? Because it is a real pain cutting the string or the belaying slings on the beautiful sandstone ridges which … disintegrate when they are rubbed!

To avoid more trouble – but it is less vital and obvious for a climber :

• A light head torch

• Plenty of slings for returning or retreating

• Something for a snack

UNPLANNED BIVOUACS

If there's wood around make a good fire and settle yourselves around it. The upper parts of the mountains (the summit plateaux) and the canyons nearly all have wood.  If you find a pile of wood all ready, use it for your bivouac. Get another one together before you leave for the next people to come.  There is invariably plenty of vegetation on the mountains – goats and camels, who make off with the vegetation elsewhere, don't come up there.

Don't worry about the weather. The bivouacs are usually magic moments, the ones that stay in your memory.

NB : hm, hm… Most mobile phones work better on the summits. Tell your friends – or your girl friend - below what you're up to.