CLIMBERS !
Let’s try the " Soft Touch
Adventure "
Wilfried Colonna on the first ascent of Al Uzza - 7a+ (photo DOMENECH)
In Wadi Rum there is still the smell of adventure!
Far from the more corrupt pleasure of the too artificial climbing of our cliffs, the radical game of "the Great Free Climbing" allows us to question it. The special demands of this sandstone needing a soft touch continues to delight the climber. If there is such a thing as an exotic rock, then Wadi Rum wins the palm. This supposes, of course, that you are willing to try something new and "Take a Walk on the Wild Side..."
(Jebel Rum East Face - photo DOMENECH)
COMPARISONS
In the game of comparisons, two areas seem closest : the sandstone of Fontainebleau (France) for its shapes, its round forms, and multitude of different holds. But the closest relationship to the "soft touch" is in the towers of Elbsandsteingebirge (Germany) or Bohemia (Czech Republic).
And for those who know them, the walls of Red Rock in Las Vegas in Nevada (USA) are amazingly like the steep and compact structures of the canyons of Wadi Rum.
"Mushrooms", or "Jellyfishes", or giant mushrooms are also a local speciality. They come in horizontal bands encircling the apparently unclimbable ramparts. The weak points are not easily detected, or if so they are madly complicated.
In short, as a whole the terrain is absolutely not at all the same everywhere. Surprises are guaranteed! You need to be adaptable, and especially you shouldn't launch out on just anything. As for the pure bolted crag-rat, he should be warned – sometimes it is better just to look at the photos…
Many stories have been told about climbing in Wadi Rum. Complete confusion reigned when some climbers, not exactly carried away by the unusual rock, launched a hasty verdict : the excessive softness of the sandstone was limiting them in their vertically choreographed frolics. Presumably they had met with some humiliating failure, after which they developed a distaste for the more subtle ways of exotic climbing. Perhaps they didn't have the patience to tame the soft sandstone?
The Pillar of Wisdom (Photo
M. VERIN)
Whatever happens, once again, let adaptability be the Master word.
Do not be too ambitious in your first objectives. One – or even two - grades below your usual level is a reasonable choice to start with. You usually climb 6a on nuts? Then choose a route 4c/5 to start with. If all goes well, then go up a grade, and so on.
A young climber getting used to climbing on
sandstone
"dièdre des Autichiens" on Um Zelighe
You adapt slowly, interspersing your climbing with hikes, reconnoitring in the canyons. Alternate "short climbs" and bigger cliffs to try out the various styles. Learn the descents that are common to several routes, and the return routes that are generally long and complicated. Be particularly careful abut the exact place to start the climbs. You will save time in the end.
Beforehand, don't hesitate to read the pages of this site, the route descriptions, and the new and detailed comments in the "Climbers book" in the Rest-house of Rum, which offers criticism and advice. (See page: "Climbers' Book in the Resthouse")
Sicq Barrah (Barrah
Canyon) - Photo B. DOMENECH
Immerse yourself in the scene by reading the page "Climbers, stories and comments" and the reports in "Rock fantasies : different climbing styles". And especially, do not hesitate to discuss with the "valley regulars" , the local Bedouin guides (see the heading "The Bedouin & climbing"), and members of "The Desert Society Guides ".
Good climbing!
Wilfried
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